The Lower Belvedere

Thursday, April 8, 2010 (Part 5):

We learned during our tour of the Belvedere that Prince Eugene was not considered a physically attractive man (described as short, pock marked and humpbacked) but he was obviously quite intelligent. He never married, and when he died, his considerable fortune, properties and collections fell to a niece. Sadly, she did appreciate what she had inherited beyond its monetary value. She quickly proceeded to sell everything. As a result, Prince Eugene's many wonderful collections, and most notably his art collection, were split up and scattered all over Europe.

We were very fortunate when we visited the Belvedere because there was a temporary exhibit on display that was about the life of Prince Eugene. As part of this exhibit, many pieces of art and other collectibles had been brought back together. Also on display were a lot of maps and military memorabilia from his campaigns, as well as many portraits of Prince Eugene, his royal patrons and his friends.

Most of all, we saw the rooms he had occupied in the Lower

Belvedere, and we learned how each room was used. Many of the rooms have been preserved just as originally decorated. Additionally, adjacent to the Lower Belvedere was

an "orangerie" -- a sort of green house with movable walls and ceiling. In bad weather months, the walls and ceiling were full extended to protect the plants (including orange trees). In good weather months they were, of course, removed. It must have been a very interesting site.

Other rooms in the Lower Belvedere were (1) the Marble

Room which, of course, is made entirely of marble, (2) the Golden Room, which is all gilt and mirrors and is where one of the wedding receptions for Marie Antoinette was held, (3) the Hall of Grotesques, which had fantastically decorated (hand painted) walls with a jumble of outdoor scenes and characters, and (4) the Georg Raphael Donner room, where a set of black marble fountain statues dominate the room.

After touring the Lower Belvedere, we had lunch at a cafe at the foot of the expanse of gardens that lie between the two palaces. It was a beautiful, sunny day -- the warmest day of the week, and we enjoyed our lunch in the sun. Then we strolled through the gardens to the Upper Belvedere.