A Day in Ancient Rome

Trip to Italy - Journal Entry #4 - September 20, 2009 - 3:30 pm

We have had another busy day and decided to take a break before heading out for our evening activity; we're going to an opera concert!

One interesting little fact

about Rome is the ready availability of drinking water. On numerous street corners and at many monuments, there are open fauce

ts (like the one pictured here) where cool spring water is piped into the city from 40 miles away. The taps are often open and running freely into a basin. We have been encouraged by all the guides to use the fountains to replenish our water bottles, and we have -- a lot! The water runs cool and it tastes really good. This free water is the only real bargain in Rome. Everything else is over priced and very expensive. But we're on vacation, so we try to to dwell on it!

Today was our day in ancient Rome. We had pre-purchased tickets for the Colosseum for 11:00 am so we headed out at around 9:30 am, walking directly south of our hotel. Chris has become our navigator. He's really good at reading the map and finding his way through the cobblestone streets - most of which are no more than alleyways. And few of the streets run in straight lines or at right angles. It's very interesting, but it's also very confusing. On the positive side, in Rome, as in many European cities, the streets are well marked with plaques and signs affixed to thebuildings at each corner. I guess when you're in a city where the buildings stand for centuries you can do that!

So, anyway, we started walking south, and at one point we emerged out of a narrow street into a piazza and found ourselves directly in front of the Pantheon. Wow! The Pantheon is the oldest, still standing, building in Rome. It's

about 2,000 years old and pre-dates the Colosseum. Since we chanced upon it, we popped inside for a few minutes.

It's just a shell of a building housing a large open space below a huge rotunda ceiling. There are about 6 or 8 large statues that sit in alcoves around the sides and there is a small free standing altar against the back wall. The most amazing feature of the Pantheon is the ceiling. It is one of the largest concrete roof structures in the world and it has a circular opening directly in the center. The opening is large -- maybe 20 feet in diameter. Legend has it that it never rains through the hole. Realists say that it does! We did not stay long at the Pantheon because we had timed tickets for the Colosseum, but we enjoyed our few minutes there (and we would return later).

As we approached the Colosseum, we were approached, once again, by someone offering to put us in a tour group. We had so enjoyed our Vatican tour guide that we readily agreed. Our Colosseum tour guide's name was Aldo.

Our tour began, naturally enough, along the outside of the Colosseum. We learned about why it was built (to entertain the slaves) and how it was constructed (multiple exterior walls, numbered entry gates). We also learned how it came to be destroyed (by the Barbarians who sacked Rome). We then proceeded inside. Chris and I took the stairs to the top most level still in existence. Dad took the easier path and rode in an elevator with Aldo and a few others in our group. We reconnected at the top and proceeded to an open spot looking out over the central area of the arena.

The Colosseum is entirely in ruins, but there is enough infrastructure remaining that it is easy to visualize the cellars and arena floor and the balconies and seats above.

Most people think of lions when they think of the animals that were released here to battle with the gladiators, but there were actually many of varieties of wild animals (tigers, panthers, bears) used to provide "entertainment" here, and they were often released into the arena all at once. We also learned about how the gladiators -- all slaves -- were trained and could, if successful in the games, earn their freedom.

After our tour with Aldo, we reenergized with ham and cheese panini sandwiches from a food vendor outside the Colosseum, and then met up with our second tour guide, Steve. Steve would be leading us through Palentine Hill and the Roman Forum. Steve kept a brisk pace but he was very knowledgeable and entertaining. On this tour, we saw ruins of a huge ancient palace, walked through an olive grove, saw remnants of Rome's ancient aqueduct system, and learned of the main features of the Roman Forum. These included the Hall of the Vestal Virgins, the Senate and the spot where Caesar is buried.

Today, we experienced our first bad weather. It started raining while we were in the Roman Forum. Luckily, it never really poured, but the rain got a little heavy at times, and, of course, I had left my umbrella in the hotel room. Vendors showed up everywhere trying to sell umbrellas, but we toughed it out. Tonight, when we go out, I'll carry my umbrella!

Because of the rain, Dad had a small mishap today. We were talking the stairs down from the Capitoline (i.e., City Hall) when Dad slipped and fell on his bum. He seems fine, thank goodness. All the streets here are made of irregular black stones (several inches square). They have a very smooth surface and they get very slippery when it rains.

Walking is made more difficult by the uneven stone block surfaces and the scarcity of sidewalks. Another hazard is the car traffic. The streets are very narrow and always one-way for car traffic. But the cars zip around quickly, and you have to be on the look out. But walking is the best way to see Rome, and we really are able to get places quickly on foot. In fact, we've been surprised how quickly we can get to places that look far away on the map.

The Hotel Due Torri turns out to have been a really good choice for us. First, it's in an excellent, central location -- just north of the Piazza Navona. Second, the staff is wonderfully friendly and helpful. They are happy to answer questions, give directions and make recommendations for us. Our rooms are small but more than adequate although the shower is laughably small. You can barely turn around a

nd bending over is an absolute impossibility!